Відео

Someone from Sovol is clearly listening to you as the wiki page and google docs page has been updated with your recommendations. Nice to see an OEM paying close attention to their users.

Big printers have big advantages and big disadvantages too!

And for the tjc Board?

Awe, I missed this. I'm gonna have to download this for next year's Fathers Day! Thanks as always!!!!!

You have answered a lot of questions for me thank you very much

I've noticed that my X rail profile has some uneven surface where the third wheel touches it , is there any chance to fix that without changing the rail? Tried to fix it with this wheel adjustments but no luck

thank you

Great to see a friendly 3D printing youtuber. Unlike that mean guy, Joel. (I am totally joking. Joel is a sweetheart.) I hadn't heard of STTPU before and I started printing using service bureaus before you could get anything for home use, and got my first home printer almost 15 years ago. So much wood on that thing. LOL It sounds perfect for a use I have in mind, so I will definitely be trying it out. Thanks for the info about the flex plate as well. I've been wanting to get a back up plate as the one from another brand is pretty close to warn out.

Nice printer. I'm tempted, BUT, I must have a color display. I haven't done monochrome since the early 2000's. Sure, some people don't care, but I'm spoiled and only want color. It's not like a color display costs that much more at all. I have a ton of them for projects I make and they are not pricey. That being said, the other issue is all that waste. I've been watching some vids on that and there are ways to avoid almost all waste. For one, there's a new option that takes advantage of a long retraction. It will retract most of the filament, only purge a little bit and change filament. Then, there's another option (if I understand this correctly) where you can have a "purge tower." The recommendation is, that if you are printing multiple parts, you can select one of the parts to be the purge tower, where you don't care about it's color (could be a part inside another part). So no purge waste as the parts is built with the purged material. Of course, there's infill as well, but I'm not sure how well that works. I understand that there's also an option to just turn purging off altogether. This would be if you don't care about where the colors change, in that, you don't need a sharp change. I'd be good with that. But the monochrome display is a deal breaker for me. It's too bad that they don't offer an "upgrade" to a color display or just dump the stupid monochrome display altogether.

buddy you are some kind of a genius!! I was about to beat up my Ender 3 v2 Neo because i tought its just a junk sh*t but after this video.... my prints are like touched by Gods hands!! Thank You!

Experienced Printer here. I've been having trouble with a very specific and intricate model reliably adhering to any of my current plates. I sell the prints in question and failures really effect the bottom line. Heavy brims have been the answer thus far, but really eat into post processing time. If this plate can solve my problem without brims, it's worth it to me. Thanks for the introduction and review. I'll give it a try. I enjoy your channel.

Its far too expensive IMO, I dont have any issues with the build plates I already have, some of them were only one third of the price of the Sliceworx buildplate.

This firmware is fantastic. thank you for the recommendation

Hi, first time seeing yours videos. My A1 is actually prints the top mount. Thank you, i have no regret ! From France 🎉

One minute into this Video and i already dont want this product. the DON'Ts are way too much for a plate :D

Listen, I am a dum dum being new to all of this and ordered the 2560 super kit not knowing the uno wasn't in it, which heck I don't know the difference in the uno and what ever board is in the 2560 either because I just got it. I do know now the uno is used for print boards ect. anywho, what i'm trying to say is this was so engaging and well executed I stayed and watched this entire video. I have to say you was made for guides and tutorials from your voice, pauses, explanations, and super easy to understand little tid bits that dum dums like me that have no idea about. I just was like one day I wish I knew about electronics so here I am. I probably should buy this board to follow along now just because. Do you have any lessons on the 2560 kit? Thanks again!

Do you still select the regular Bambu Textured plate in Bambu/Orca slicer?

Glad to see you put this plate review to bed.

Website says TPU can be printed, just not variants. "Use: Your prints in PLA, TPU, ABS, PETG ... " right there on their site.

Print a file in ABS that is large across more of the whole bed and then let us know if it completely sticks to the surface.

Cut your hair please.

Seems like a pretty limited plate for similar pricing to one made of G10, which works with everything mentioned as a no no for this one, and can be cleaned with ipa. Pass.

I see what you did there with those colors!

Interestingly the description of that plate now lists TPU as one of the acceptable filaments, but not 'TPU derivatives'. Weird. And at £52 postage, I think I'll pass... 😂

Thanks BV3D.

Well this settles it. She's going up top. I'm guessing you used standard PLA?

you sold me! buying one with your coupon code now. thanks!

Hi Bryan. I bought the Ender 3 Max Neo, upgraded to the Sprite Extruder Pro. I even upgraded the mainboard to the 4.2.7 version. But I'm still stuck on that creality screen of death. Is there anything that you or anyone can help me with? Thank you so much in advance.

Sounds interesting but I would also have to change my normal routine not sure if that's possible.

I bought the BL P1P version with your code. Thanks for the heads up.

Has anyone found a print bed for Bambu that is like the matte frosted spring steel ones you can buy or they come stock with the 5S1 now I believe? I'm looking for a matte frosted finish vs. the deep bumps and shiny or just smooth I see everywhere. Might grab one of these for my A1, not having that encloser like my P1S makes a big difference in my case.

If you’re recommending it, it must be good. 👍

Thanks Bryan. I used the code but it didn't work. I still ordered but was a bit disappointed. I used the code on a different plate (the one for ender 3) so maybe that's why ugggg

Thanks, Bryan! I'd like to see a ful bed print and not just a small area in the middle. My experience with any kind of flex bed is the magnetic grip is weaker than the print to bed bond. Over the weekend I printed some server risers in ABS and when the print flexed, it literally pulled the sides of the flex plate off the magnetic sheet. Does this flex plate suffer the same fate? I half expected a "redrum" when you examined your air quotes, LOL.

I love it! Print the parts to fix what we break! Great videos! Keep up the great work

Could you do a review of the creality Space pi plus (2 spool version)?

You should include a link to the Tetris Gcode file, of course!

Hi Bryan. I installed a Sprite extruder to my ender 3 max neo. I was stuck on that creality screen. I e-mailed Creality, and they told me that I would have to upgrade the mainboard to a 4.2.7 one. I did that also but the screen is still stuck on creality. Can you please tell me what firmware I should use. Thank you.

That clear enclosure for that mini!!! I needs it!

Hi! Please help! I recently upgraded my Ender 5PLUS with a 4.2.7 32Bit motherboard and a colour LCD, of course i uploaded the best firmware ever, the Mriscoc 😅 My problem is, the firmware is locked at 230mm printing size, and i want to increase it to 370mm on what ender 5plus have. I tried to do it from slicer, but the printer firmware overrides the GCode and stops at 230mm. How can i increase the printing volume?

amazing video! hope this channel grows exponentially. I thought this was a 1M subs channel XD. Anyways thank you for sharing this!

soooooo loud, and its failing supports

Great tutorial fir remixing STLs in Tinkercad. Thanks for your clear explanation!

Fun fact, for P1S and X1C users, move large base print to right side of build plate away from enclosure air blower. Also, don't reduce cooling fan, you'll need it for high quality bridge.

very cool

Hi bryan... thanks for all your videos... have been following you since 2022when I got into 3d printing with my E3V2.. I have a few mods on the hotend (dual gear extruder, dual 5015, bimetal hetbreak and direct drive DIY mount)... and I'm looking to replace all that with the sprite pro.. but also looking at just replace the hoyend with the spider 3 and the BMG dual drive extruder... even with the sprite pro, I will add a mod later for the dual 5015.. but not sure which option to choose... is like a 40 ish dollar diff.. what is your take?

Hey Bryan, just got a P1P, following on the heels of the A1 mini I've had a couple months. while puzzling over the downgraded GUI and features of the "better" printer, I found this review. looks like a nice work around, I may get one, but I'm not seeing it fully solving my p1p issues. Refering to marginal data card port, the only way to get files to the printer for me, so either the P1P port has to remain in use, or the Panda provides a fully configured port, or its a nice oddity. oh, btw, saying its all easy peasy to install, just need the code. which is way over there in the tiny screen we are trying to replace. no mention of which sub menu or any other pearls, just a hard segue into a feedback pitch.(6:30) feedback given